Enter how many hens you will keep and the space you have. The plan sizes the coop for your flock, checks that it fits with its roof and ramp, and gives you the shopping list, every cut and each step with a drawing.
Enter how many hens you will keep and the space you have. The plan sizes the coop for your flock, checks that it fits with its roof and ramp, and gives you the shopping list, every cut and each step with a drawing.
Reviewed by FigureYard editorial teamUpdated October 9, 202619 sources
Your measurements
Coop for your flock
19sq ft of floor inside
Outside size: 6.5 ft long, 4 ft deep, floor 2 ft up
Type the prices from your store to see the total. They stay in this browser for next time.
Item
Qty
Price each
Total
4x4 post, ground-contact treated, 12 ft long
1 post
–
2x4 lumber, 10 ft long
16 boards
–
2x4 lumber, 8 ft long
6 boards
–
1x4 board, 10 ft long
2 boards
–
1x4 board, 8 ft long
1 board
–
1x12 board, 8 ft long
2 boards
–
1/2 in exterior plywood, 4 ft × 8 ft sheet
4 sheets
–
Exterior wood screws, 3 in, for the frame204 needed plus 21 spares
225 screws
–
Exterior wood screws, 1 5/8 in, for plywood and the nest boxes294 needed plus 30 spares
324 screws
–
Exterior wood screws, 1 1/4 in, for hinges, latches, trim and the ramp
90 screws
–
Hurricane ties (rafter ties) for 2x4, galvanizedone where each rafter crosses the front and the back wall
10 ties
–
Connector screws or nails listed on the tie packagefill every hole of each tie; check the count on the package
100 pieces
–
Roofing screws with sealing washers, 2 inabout five across each panel at every purlin; follow the panel maker’s pattern
100 screws
–
T-hinges, galvanized, about 4 inclean-out door
2 hinges
–
Small hinges, galvanized, about 3 intwo for the pop door, two for the ramp
4 hinges
–
Barrel bolt latches, galvanizedtwo on the clean-out door, one on the pop door
3 latches
–
Small snap hooks (carabiners) to lock each latcha latch that needs two steps keeps raccoons out
3 hooks
–
Fender washers, 1 in, with 1 1/4 in screws, for the vent meshone every 4 in around each screen
88 sets
–
Corrugated roof panels, 26 in wide, 6 ft longpolycarbonate or metal; no cutting needed
4 panels
–
Closure strips to match the panelsunder the panels along the low and high edges
16 ft
–
Galvanized hardware cloth, 1/2 in mesh, 24 in × 5 ft rollscreens the vents under the roof
1 roll
–
Concrete paver or patio block for each legkeeps the legs off wet ground
6 pavers
–
Total for the items you priced
–
Cut list
Part
What it is
Lumber
Size
Cut
A
Floor frame, front and back
2x4 lumber
77 in
2
B
Floor joistthe two end joists close the frame
2x4 lumber
44 in
6
C
Legfour corners, plus two in the middle
4x4 post, ground-contact treated
23 1/2 in
6
E
Floor
1/2 in exterior plywood
77 × 47 in
1
F
Front wall platetop and bottom
2x4 lumber
77 in
2
G
Front wall stud
2x4 lumber
41 in
4
H
Door headerabove the clean-out door
2x4 lumber
36 in
1
J
Back wall platetop and bottom
2x4 lumber
77 in
2
K
Back wall stud
2x4 lumber
30 1/8 in
5
L
Side wall platetop and bottom, two side walls
2x4 lumber
40 in
4
M
Side wall end stud
2x4 lumber
30 1/8 in
4
N
Roost railone in each side wall; the roosts rest on it
2x4 lumber
37 in
2
P
Pop door studone in each side wall
2x4 lumber
19 1/2 in
2
R
Raftersquare cut at both ends
2x4 lumber
68 in
5
S
Purlinlaid flat across the rafters
2x4 lumber
92 in
5
T
Roostlaid flat, wide side up
2x4 lumber
76 in
1
U
Front sidingthe clean-out door is cut from it
1/2 in exterior plywood
78 × 48 in
1
V
Back siding
1/2 in exterior plywood
78 × 37 1/8 in
1
W
Side sidings, cut as a paircut on the diagonal into both side walls
1/2 in exterior plywood
93 3/16 × 47 in
1
X1
Door trim, top and bottom
1x4 board
38 in
2
X2
Door trim, sides
1x4 board
25 in
2
Y1
Pop door trim, top and bottom
1x4 board
14 in
2
Y2
Pop door trim, sides
1x4 board
9 in
2
Y3
Ramp
1x12 board
40 in
1
Y4
Ramp cleat
1x4 board
11 1/4 in
6
Z1
Nest floor
1x12 board
24 3/4 in
1
Z2
Nest top
1x12 board
24 3/4 in
1
Z3
Nest end
1x12 board
30 3/4 in
2
Z4
Nest divider
1x12 board
12 in
1
Z5
Nest lipkeeps the bedding and eggs in
1/2 in exterior plywood
26 1/4 × 4 3/4 in
1
Z6
Nest back rail
1x4 board
26 1/4 in
2
Where to cut each board
Each bar is one board you buy, drawn to scale. Measure from the left end, cut, then measure the next piece from the fresh cut; the saw blade takes about 1/8 in each time. Hatched ends are offcuts.
4x4 post, ground-contact treated
2x4 lumber
1x4 board
1x12 board
1/2 in exterior plywood, sheet 1 of 4
1/2 in exterior plywood, sheet 2 of 4
1/2 in exterior plywood, sheet 3 of 4
1/2 in exterior plywood, sheet 4 of 4
Tools
Tape measure, pencil and a speed square
Circular saw or miter saw, and a jigsaw for the door openings
Drill/driver with pilot drill bits for your screws and a driver bit that fits them
Two clamps, a level and a long straightedge for the plywood cuts
Tin snips for the hardware cloth, and work gloves for handling it
Safety glasses, hearing protection and a dust mask
Step by step
Cut the pieces
Square one end of each board, measure from it and mark the length with a square line across the board. Cut on the waste side of the line, and write each piece’s letter on it in pencil.
Cut the plywood with the good face down when you use a circular saw, so splinters stay on the back. The side walls W come from one piece: mark 52 1/2 in up one long edge and the same down from the top of the other, join the marks with a straight line, and cut along it.
Leave the door openings for later: you cut them once the siding is on the coop, so they line up with the frame.
Build the floor frame
Lay the front and back frame pieces A on edge, 47 in apart on the outside. Mark the joist centers on both, measuring from the same end: 15 7/8, 30 15/16, 46 1/16, 61 1/8 in.
Set the two end joists B flush with the ends, then the rest on the marks. Drill two pilot holes through A into each joist end, 7/8 in from the top and bottom edges, and drive the 3 in screws.
Measure both diagonals; when they match (about 7 ft 6 3/16 in), the frame is square.
Screw: drill a pilot hole first, then drive the screw
Add the legs
Turn the frame upside down on a flat surface. Stand a leg C in each inside corner, tight against the frame side A and the end joist B, and two more against the middle joist, one at the front and one at the back.
Drive two 3 in screws through A into each leg, 3 1/4 in from the end, and two through the joist into the leg. Turn the frame over onto its legs.
Set a paver under each leg on firm ground and level the floor frame both ways, adding soil or gravel under the low pavers. The top of the frame should be 23 1/2 in above the ground.
Screw: drill a pilot hole first, then drive the screw
Lay the floor
Set the floor sheet E on the frame with its edges flush all round. Draw lines across it over each joist center, so the screws find the wood.
Drive 1 5/8 in screws every 6 in along the edges and every 12 in along the joist lines.
Screw: drill a pilot hole first, then drive the screw
Build the front wall
Lay the two plates F side by side and mark the studs on both at once: 0, 19, 56 1/2, 75 1/2 in from the left end to the left edge of each stud. The two in the middle frame the clean-out door.
Set the studs G between the plates on the marks and drive two 3 in screws through each plate into each stud end. Fit the header H between the door studs with its underside 31 1/2 in above the bottom of the frame, and screw through the studs into it.
Screw: drill a pilot hole first, then drive the screw
Build the back wall
Build the back wall the same way, with the plates J and the studs K on these marks: 0, 18 7/8, 37 3/4, 56 5/8, 75 1/2 in. It is lower than the front wall, so the roof slopes to the back.
Screw: drill a pilot hole first, then drive the screw
Build the two side walls
Each side wall has two end studs M between its plates L. Screw the roost rail N flat between the end studs with its top 22 1/2 in above the bottom of the frame: the roosts will rest on it at 24 in above the floor.
Add the pop door stud P under the rail, its front edge 13 1/2 in from the front end. Build the second side wall the same; the pop door goes in only one of them.
Screw: drill a pilot hole first, then drive the screw
Stand the walls up
Stand the front and back walls on the floor, flush with its edges, then set the side walls between them.
Screw through each side wall end stud into the front or back wall with three 3 in screws, top, middle and bottom.
Screw down through the bottom plates into the floor frame every 16 in or so, so the walls cannot lift.
Screw: drill a pilot hole first, then drive the screw
Set the rafters
Mark the rafter positions on the top plates of the front and back walls: 0, 18 7/8, 37 3/4, 56 5/8, 75 1/2 in from the left end. The end rafters sit flush with the outside of the side walls.
Lay each rafter R across both walls so it hangs 9 in past the front siding line and the same past the back. Fix it to each wall with a hurricane tie, filling every hole with the fasteners the tie maker lists.
Hurricane tie
Put on the siding
Hold the front siding U against the front wall with its bottom edge flush with the bottom of the floor frame and its ends flush with the outside of the side walls. Screw it on, then do the back V.
The side walls W fit between the front and back siding, with their sloped edge along the top of the end rafters.
Cut the door openings through the siding where the drawings show, along the inside of the frame: drill a hole in each corner, then join the holes with a jigsaw. Keep the pieces you cut out: they become the doors.
Screw the siding every 6 in along its edges and every 12 in along the studs in between.
Roof it
Screw the purlins S flat across the rafters with two 3 in screws at every crossing. Measure along the top of each rafter from its front end to the front edge of each purlin: 0, 9 1/4, 32 1/4, 55 1/4, 64 1/2 in. Let the purlins stand out 7 in past each side wall.
On each end rafter, between the purlins above the walls, screw a gable filler S1 flat, so no gap is left under the roof for a weasel to slip through.
Lay closure strips along the lowest and highest purlins. Start the first panel at one end with its lower edge 2 in past the back purlin, overlap each next panel as its maker shows, pre-drill and screw through the washers.
Screen the vents
Under the roof, the space between each pair of rafters above the front and back walls is left open for air. Cut a piece of 1/2 in hardware cloth for each, about 1 in bigger than the gap all round.
Fold the edges, then screw it with fender washers every 4 in to the wall top, both rafters and the purlin above.
Hang the doors
Screw the trim boards X1 and X2 to the outside of the clean-out door, letting them stand 1 in past each edge: they stop the door against the siding, so it cannot be pushed in. Screw from the inside with the 1 1/4 in screws.
Hinge the door on the left with the T-hinges, the long leaves on the door, and fit the two barrel bolts on the right, each with a snap hook through it.
Make the pop door the same way with the trims Y1 and Y2, hinged on the front side, with one latch.
Hinge Latch
Build the nest boxes
2 nest boxes. Screw the end boards Z3 to the nest floor Z1 with its top 18 in up, and to the top Z2. Set the dividers Z4 between them, one box width apart.
Screw the lip Z5 across the front so it stands 4 in above the nest floor, and the two back rails Z6 across the back at the top and under the floor.
Stand the boxes against the back wall at the left end and screw through the back rails into the studs.
Screw: drill a pilot hole first, then drive the screw
Add the roosts
Lay the roost T flat across the coop on the two rails, 12 in from the front wall to the center. Drive one screw down at each end, so you can lift them out for cleaning.
The roosts are higher than the nest floors, so hens sleep on the roosts, not in the nests.
Fit the ramp
Screw the cleats Y4 across the ramp Y3 every 6 in, starting 3 in from the bottom, as footholds.
Hinge the top end of the ramp under the pop door, screwing into the frame through the siding, so it folds up when you move the coop.
Hinge
Good to know
Use ground-contact treated 4x4s for the legs. The rest can be untreated lumber, painted or stained on the outside.
Paint or stain every outside face of the plywood, its edges most of all, before the first rain.
Shut the pop door every evening, and screen every opening with 1/2 in hardware cloth: chicken wire keeps hens in, but it does not keep predators out.
Put a layer of pine shavings or straw on the floor and in the nests, and rake it out through the clean-out door when it gets damp.
Hens with outside time need about 60 sq ft of run or fenced yard. Your space leaves only about 39 sq ft beside the coop, so let them out into a larger fenced yard.
The coop is a raised box one plywood sheet deep, on 4x4 legs, with a sloped roof of corrugated panels. Nest boxes, roosts, a big clean-out door and a pop door with a ramp are included, and the space, nest and roost sizes follow university extension guidance. Every cut is straight, and the tools are a saw, a jigsaw and a drill.
How to use this calculator
Enter the number of hens and choose standard hens or bantams. Pick whether they will go out into a run or yard every day: hens kept in the coop all the time need much more floor.
Measure the spot for the coop and enter its length and width. The coop needs room for its roof overhang and the ramp, and the plan tells you if the space is too small and how many hens it would fit.
Set the longest boards you can bring home. Under More options, change how high the floor sits off the ground; it must be at least 12 inches up.
Take the shopping list to the store and type the prices in to see the total. Then follow the cut list and the steps in order: each step shows where every piece goes and where every screw is driven.
Worked examples
Four hens for a small backyard
Hens: 4 · Space: 12 × 8 ft
Coop for your flock
12 sq ft of floor inside
Outside size
4.5 ft long, 4 ft deep, floor 2 ft up
Nest boxes
2 boxes
Roosts
1 roost, 4 ft 4 in long, for 4 hens
Boards to buy
24
Six hens with a run
Hens: 6 · Space: 12 × 8 ft
Coop for your flock
19 sq ft of floor inside
Outside size
6.5 ft long, 4 ft deep, floor 2 ft up
Nest boxes
2 boxes
Roosts
1 roost, 6 ft 4 in long, for 6 hens
Boards to buy
28
The full-size coop, one sheet long
Hens: 8 · Space: 14 × 8 ft
Coop for your flock
24 sq ft of floor inside
Outside size
8 ft long, 4 ft deep, floor 2 ft up
Nest boxes
2 boxes
Roosts
1 roost, 7 ft 10 in long, for 8 hens
Boards to buy
31
A dozen bantams
Hens: 12 · Breed size: Bantams · Space: 14 × 8 ft
Coop for your flock
24 sq ft of floor inside
Outside size
8 ft long, 4 ft deep, floor 2 ft up
Nest boxes
3 boxes
Roosts
2 roosts, 7 ft 10 in long, for 12 bantams
Boards to buy
32
How big a coop your hens need
Extension services give each standard hen about 3 square feet of floor inside the coop when the birds also have a run or yard, and bantams about 2 square feet. Hens shut in the coop all the time need 8 to 10 square feet each. The plan counts only the floor inside the walls, not the outside size.
Outside, plan on about 10 square feet of run for each standard hen and 5 square feet for each bantam. The plan tells you how much of your space is left for it.
The coop is never deeper than one plywood sheet is wide, so you can reach every corner through the clean-out door. A flock too big for the longest coop of this design needs a second coop or a walk-in coop.
Nest boxes and roosts
One nest box for every 4 hens, and never fewer than 2 nest boxes. Each box is 12 inches wide, deep and high, with a lip of about 4 inches across the front to hold the bedding in.
The nest floors sit 18 inches above the coop floor and the roosts 24 inches up. Hens prefer the highest perch for the night, so roosts set above the nests keep them from sleeping in the boxes.
Each bird needs about 10 inches of roost. When one roost is not long enough, the plan adds a second one 12 inches from the first.
The roosts rest on rails in the side walls with one screw at each end, so they lift out when you clean.
Keeping predators out
Raccoons, foxes, weasels and rats are the usual coop raiders. Every opening is screened with hardware cloth with 0.5 inch mesh, fastened with screws and washers rather than staples, and the floor sits at least 12 inches off the ground so nothing can nest underneath.
Under the roof, a purlin sits right above each wall, so the vent screens close up against solid wood, and fillers on the end rafters close the last gaps. The doors overlap their openings and lock with two-step latches.
If you build a run, bury its wire 12 inches deep along the edges and bend the bottom 6 inches outward, so digging animals hit wire.
The roof and the vents
Corrugated panels need a slope of at least 3 inches of rise for every foot for metal panels; polycarbonate panels allow less, but the plan uses the steeper slope so either kind works. The panels rest on purlins no more than 24 inches apart and hang 2 inches past the last one.
The plan picks the rafter length so the panels fit without cutting, which also gives the coop deep overhangs that keep rain off the vents. Fit closure strips along the low and high edges, as the panel makers ask.
Fresh air comes in through the screened gaps under the roof along the front and back walls, high above the roosts, so the hens sleep out of the draft.
Reading the cut list
Plywood comes in sheets 48 inches by 96 inches, and the plan lays every plywood piece out on them. Leave a gap of 0.125 inch between sheets, and use screws long enough to reach 1 inch into the studs.
A 2x4 is actually 3.5 inches by 1.5 inches, and 1x12 boards like those for the nest boxes are 0.75 inch thick. The plan uses the real sizes, and the cutting diagrams leave room for the saw blade, about 0.059 to 0.098 inches a cut.
Common questions
How big should a chicken coop be for six chickens?
Each standard hen with a run or yard needs about 3 square feet of floor inside the coop, so six hens need six times that. The second example above builds that coop and lists everything for it.
How many nest boxes do I need?
One for every 4 hens, and at least 2 nest boxes even for a small flock.
How high off the ground should a chicken coop be?
At least 12 inches, so rats and snakes cannot live under it. A floor around waist height makes cleaning easier; set the height under More options and the legs and ramp change with it.
Is chicken wire enough to keep predators out?
No. Chicken wire keeps hens in, but it does not stop a determined raccoon or a weasel. Use hardware cloth with 0.5 inch mesh on every opening, fastened with screws and washers.
What does it cost to build this coop?
Type the prices from your store into the shopping list and it adds up the total. The prices stay in your browser, so you can compare stores or come back later.
What is the ideal chicken coop layout?
Put the nest boxes low, at 18 inches above the floor, and the roosts higher, at 24 inches, so the hens sleep on the roosts and not in the nests. Raise the coop 12 inches off the ground, keep the vents high above the roosts, and add a big clean-out door you can reach every corner through.
Are these walk-in or mobile chicken coop plans?
No. This is a fixed, raised coop that you reach into through the clean-out door, so it is not a walk-in coop and it does not move. If your flock is too big for it, plan a second coop or a walk-in coop.
How many chickens can fit in a 4x8 run?
A 4x8 run has 32 square feet of space. Divide that by 10 square feet for each standard hen, or 5 square feet for each bantam, and round down so the run stays green.
The coop is a raised box one plywood sheet deep, on 4x4 legs, with a sloped roof of corrugated panels. Nest boxes, roosts, a big clean-out door and a pop door with a ramp are included, and the space, nest and roost sizes follow university extension guidance. Every cut is straight, and the tools are a saw, a jigsaw and a drill.
How to use this calculator
Enter the number of hens and choose standard hens or bantams. Pick whether they will go out into a run or yard every day: hens kept in the coop all the time need much more floor.
Measure the spot for the coop and enter its length and width. The coop needs room for its roof overhang and the ramp, and the plan tells you if the space is too small and how many hens it would fit.
Set the longest boards you can bring home. Under More options, change how high the floor sits off the ground; it must be at least 30 cm up.
Take the shopping list to the store and type the prices in to see the total. Then follow the cut list and the steps in order: each step shows where every piece goes and where every screw is driven.
Extension services give each standard hen about 0.28 m² of floor inside the coop when the birds also have a run or yard, and bantams about 0.19 m². Hens shut in the coop all the time need 0.74 to 0.93 m² each. The plan counts only the floor inside the walls, not the outside size.
Outside, plan on about 0.93 m² of run for each standard hen and 0.46 m² for each bantam. The plan tells you how much of your space is left for it.
The coop is never deeper than one plywood sheet is wide, so you can reach every corner through the clean-out door. A flock too big for the longest coop of this design needs a second coop or a walk-in coop.
Nest boxes and roosts
One nest box for every 4 hens, and never fewer than 2 nest boxes. Each box is 30 cm wide, deep and high, with a lip of about 10 cm across the front to hold the bedding in.
The nest floors sit 46 cm above the coop floor and the roosts 61 cm up. Hens prefer the highest perch for the night, so roosts set above the nests keep them from sleeping in the boxes.
Each bird needs about 25 cm of roost. When one roost is not long enough, the plan adds a second one 30 cm from the first.
The roosts rest on rails in the side walls with one screw at each end, so they lift out when you clean.
Keeping predators out
Raccoons, foxes, weasels and rats are the usual coop raiders. Every opening is screened with hardware cloth with 1.3 cm mesh, fastened with screws and washers rather than staples, and the floor sits at least 30 cm off the ground so nothing can nest underneath.
Under the roof, a purlin sits right above each wall, so the vent screens close up against solid wood, and fillers on the end rafters close the last gaps. The doors overlap their openings and lock with two-step latches.
If you build a run, bury its wire 30 cm deep along the edges and bend the bottom 15 cm outward, so digging animals hit wire.
The roof and the vents
Corrugated panels need a slope of at least 7.6 cm of rise for every foot for metal panels; polycarbonate panels allow less, but the plan uses the steeper slope so either kind works. The panels rest on purlins no more than 61 cm apart and hang 5.1 cm past the last one.
The plan picks the rafter length so the panels fit without cutting, which also gives the coop deep overhangs that keep rain off the vents. Fit closure strips along the low and high edges, as the panel makers ask.
Fresh air comes in through the screened gaps under the roof along the front and back walls, high above the roosts, so the hens sleep out of the draft.
Reading the cut list
Plywood comes in sheets 122 cm by 244 cm, and the plan lays every plywood piece out on them. Leave a gap of 3.2 mm between sheets, and use screws long enough to reach 2.5 cm into the studs.
A 2x4 is actually 8.9 cm by 3.8 cm, and 1x12 boards like those for the nest boxes are 1.9 cm thick. The plan uses the real sizes, and the cutting diagrams leave room for the saw blade, about 1.5 to 2.5 mm a cut.
Common questions
How big should a chicken coop be for six chickens?
Each standard hen with a run or yard needs about 0.28 m² of floor inside the coop, so six hens need six times that. The second example above builds that coop and lists everything for it.
How many nest boxes do I need?
One for every 4 hens, and at least 2 nest boxes even for a small flock.
How high off the ground should a chicken coop be?
At least 30 cm, so rats and snakes cannot live under it. A floor around waist height makes cleaning easier; set the height under More options and the legs and ramp change with it.
Is chicken wire enough to keep predators out?
No. Chicken wire keeps hens in, but it does not stop a determined raccoon or a weasel. Use hardware cloth with 1.3 cm mesh on every opening, fastened with screws and washers.
What does it cost to build this coop?
Type the prices from your store into the shopping list and it adds up the total. The prices stay in your browser, so you can compare stores or come back later.
What is the ideal chicken coop layout?
Put the nest boxes low, at 46 cm above the floor, and the roosts higher, at 61 cm, so the hens sleep on the roosts and not in the nests. Raise the coop 30 cm off the ground, keep the vents high above the roosts, and add a big clean-out door you can reach every corner through.
Are these walk-in or mobile chicken coop plans?
No. This is a fixed, raised coop that you reach into through the clean-out door, so it is not a walk-in coop and it does not move. If your flock is too big for it, plan a second coop or a walk-in coop.
How many chickens can fit in a 4x8 run?
A 4x8 run has 3 m² of space. Divide that by 0.93 m² for each standard hen, or 0.46 m² for each bantam, and round down so the run stays green.