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DIY Build Plans

Bird House Plans

Pick the bird you want to attract and how many boxes to build. The plan sizes the box for that bird, then gives you the shopping list, every cut and each step with a drawing.

Reviewed by FigureYard editorial teamUpdated October 9, 202625 sources

Your measurements

Nest box for the Eastern Bluebird
1.5in entrance hole
  • Floor inside: 5 × 5 in
  • Entrance above the floor: 7.25 in
  • Mount it: 4 to 6 ft off the ground
  • Boards to buy2
  • Pieces to cut5
  • Build steps6

Shopping list · Cut list · Step by step

What you will build

B3 1/4 in to the center6 1/2 in7 1/4 in to the center10 intop of the floorFront, seen from outside: where to drill the entrance

Shopping list

Type the prices from your store to see the total. They stay in this browser for next time.

ItemQtyPrice eachTotal
1x8 board, untreated, 8 ft long1 board–
1x12 board, untreated, 8 ft long1 board–
Galvanized exterior screws, 1 5/8 in18 needed plus 4 spares22 screws–
Galvanized exterior screws, 2 in, for the side that opens2 screws–
Two-hole pipe straps that fit your mounting polewith short screws to fasten them to the back2 straps–
Spade bit or hole saw, 1 1/2 infor the entrance hole1 bit–
Metal pole, long enough to set the box 4 ft to 6 ft up1 pole–
Stovepipe predator baffle, about 8 in across and 24 in long or moremounted on the pole below the box1 baffle–
Total for the items you priced–

Cut list

PartWhat it isLumberSizeCut
ABackreaches 3 in past the box at the top and bottom for mounting1x8 board, untreated18 11/16 × 6 1/2 in1
BFrontwith the 1 1/2 in entrance hole1x8 board, untreated10 × 6 1/2 in1
CSides, cut as a paircut corner to corner into both sides1x8 board, untreated21 15/16 × 5 in1
DFloor4 drainage holes1x8 board, untreated5 × 5 in1
ERoof1x12 board, untreated9 1/8 in1

Where to cut each board

Each bar is one board you buy, drawn to scale. Measure from the left end, cut, then measure the next piece from the fresh cut; the saw blade takes about 1/8 in each time. Hatched ends are offcuts.

1x8 board, untreated

8 ftC · 21 15/16 inA · 18 11/16 inB

1x12 board, untreated

8 ftE

Tools

  • Tape measure, pencil and a square
  • Circular saw, miter saw or a handsaw
  • Drill/driver, a pilot bit, 5/8 in and 3/8 in drill bits, and the 1 1/2 in spade bit or hole saw
  • Two clamps and a scrap board to drill into
  • Safety glasses and hearing protection

Step by step

  1. Cut the pieces

    The walls and the floor come from a 1x8 board, the roof from a 1x12 so it overhangs the sides. Square one end, then measure and cut each piece to length in the order of the cutting diagram.

    Then cut these pieces along their length to width: A 6 1/2 in, B 6 1/2 in, C 5 in, D 5 in. A circular saw against a clamped straightedge does it, or ask the store to rip the board.

    Draw a line from one corner of the side piece C to the opposite corner, 10 1/8 in up one edge and 11 13/16 in up the other, and cut along it: the two pieces are the sides.

    10 1/8 in11 13/16 in5 inone sidethe otherBoth sides from one piece, cut corner to corner
  2. Drill the holes

    Mark the center of the entrance on the front B: 3 1/4 in from either edge and 8 1/4 in up from the bottom edge, which puts it 7 1/4 in above the floor inside. Drill it with a 1 1/2 in spade bit or hole saw, with a scrap board clamped behind so the wood does not splinter.

    On the inside of the front, below the entrance, saw a few shallow grooves across the grain or roughen the wood, so the young can climb out. Leave the outside without a perch.

    Drill 2 vent holes of 5/8 in near the top of each side, and 4 drainage holes of 3/8 in near the corners of the floor D.

    B3 1/4 in to the center6 1/2 in7 1/4 in to the center10 intop of the floorFront, seen from outside: where to drill the entranceD5 in5 in1 inFloor from above: 4 drainage holes
  3. Put the box together

    Screw one side C to the back A with three screws, with its bottom edge 3 in up from the bottom of the back and its tall edge at the back.

    Set the floor D against the side and the back, 1/4 in up from the bottom edge, and screw through the back and the side into it.

    Screw the front B to the side and the floor, its bottom edge level with the bottom of the side.

    AB

    Screw: drill a pilot hole first, then drive the screw

  4. Hang the side that opens

    Fit the second side between the front and the back. Drive one screw through the front and one through the back into its edges, both 1 in below its top, and leave them a little loose: it swings on them like a door.

    Hold it shut with one screw through the front into its bottom edge. Take that screw out when you check or clean the box.

    BACE10 15/16 in inside at the backpivot screwlatch screwFrom the side that opens: it swings on two screws at the top, one screw at the bottom holds it shut

    Screw: drill a pilot hole first, then drive the screw

  5. Fit the roof

    Lay the roof E on the box so it hangs 3 in past the front, over the entrance, and 2 3/8 in past each side. Screw it to the front, the fixed side and the back.

    E
  6. Put it up

    Fasten the back to a metal pole with two pipe straps, one on each part of the back that reaches past the box, so the box sits 4 ft to 6 ft off the ground.

    Fit the stovepipe baffle on the pole below the box, so snakes, raccoons and cats cannot climb past it. A box on a tree or a fence post is easier for them to reach.

    A4 ft to 6 ftbaffleOn a metal pole, with the baffle below the box

Good to know

  • Use untreated, unpainted wood such as cedar, pine or cypress, and never paint or stain the inside of the box or the entrance hole.
  • Clean out the old nest after each brood has left, so the box is ready for the next one.

Each bird needs its own entrance hole, floor size and box depth, and the right hole keeps out the bigger birds that take over nest boxes. The sizes come from the Cornell Lab of Ornithology's NestWatch program and the US Fish and Wildlife Service, and every box has the details those guides ask for: vent and drainage holes, a roof that keeps rain off the entrance, no perch, and a side that opens for cleaning.

How to use this calculator

  1. Choose the bird. Each one comes with its own hole size, floor, depth, entrance height and the height to mount the box.
  2. Enter how many boxes to build. Several boxes share the boards, so the shopping list stays short.
  3. Set the longest boards you can bring home, then take the shopping list to the store. The walls come from the narrowest board that fits the box, and the plan tells you which pieces to cut to width.
  4. Follow the steps in order: cut, drill the entrance and the vent and drainage holes, put the box together, hang the side that opens, fit the roof and mount it on a pole with a baffle.

Worked examples

A bluebird box

Bird: Eastern Bluebird

Nest box for the Eastern Bluebird
1.5 in entrance hole
Floor inside
5 × 5 in
Entrance above the floor
7.25 in
Mount it
4 to 6 ft off the ground
Boards to buy
2

A house wren box

Bird: House Wren

Nest box for the House Wren
1 in entrance hole
Floor inside
4 × 4 in
Entrance above the floor
6 in
Mount it
5 to 10 ft off the ground
Boards to buy
2

A chickadee box

Bird: Black-capped Chickadee

Nest box for the Black-capped Chickadee
1.13 in entrance hole
Floor inside
4 × 4 in
Entrance above the floor
6.25 in
Mount it
5 to 15 ft off the ground
Boards to buy
2

Tree swallow boxes for a field

Bird: Tree Swallow · Nest boxes: 4

Nest box for the Tree Swallow
1.38 in entrance hole
Floor inside
5 × 5 in
Entrance above the floor
6 in
Mount it
5 to 6 ft off the ground
Boards to buy
4

A kestrel box

Bird: American Kestrel

Nest box for the American Kestrel
3 in entrance hole
Floor inside
8 × 8 in
Entrance above the floor
12 in
Mount it
10 to 30 ft off the ground
Boards to buy
2

A screech-owl box

Bird: Eastern Screech-Owl

Nest box for the Eastern Screech-Owl
3 in entrance hole
Floor inside
8 × 8 in
Entrance above the floor
12 in
Mount it
10 to 30 ft off the ground
Boards to buy
2

Why each bird needs its own hole

The entrance hole decides who moves in. A hole of 1.563 inches or more lets in European Starlings, and House Sparrows fit through 1.25 inches. Both are aggressive non-native birds that take over boxes, so NestWatch suggests the smallest hole the bird you want can use.

That is why a house wren box gets a hole of only 1 inches, a chickadee box 1.125 inches, and an Eastern Bluebird box 1.5 inches. Kestrels and screech-owls need 3 inches, and a bigger box to match.

The details that keep a nest dry and safe

  • Walls at least 0.75 inch thick keep the nest insulated. Use untreated, unpainted wood such as cedar, pine or cypress, and never paint the inside of the box or the entrance hole.
  • Vent holes of 0.625 inch near the top of each side let hot air out, and drainage holes of 0.375 to 0.5 inches in a floor recessed 0.25 inch let water out.
  • The roof hangs 2 to 4 inches past the front to keep rain out of the entrance, and the plan makes it 2 inches wider on each side when the boards allow.
  • There is no perch: the birds do not need one, and it gives predators and sparrows a place to wait. The inside of the front is roughened below the hole so the young can climb out.
  • One side swings open on two screws, so you can check the nest and clean the box out after each brood.

Where and how high to put it up

Each bird has its own height: an Eastern Bluebird box goes 4 ft to 6 ft up, a kestrel or screech-owl box 10 ft to 30 ft. The plan gives the range for the bird you pick.

NestWatch recommends a metal pole with a baffle rather than a tree or a fence post, which snakes, raccoons and cats climb easily. A stovepipe baffle is about 8 inches across and 24 to 36 inches long, mounted on the pole below the box.

How far apart should I put several bird houses?

Give each kind of bird its own room: allow at least 300 ft between bluebird boxes, 35 ft for tree swallows, and 100 ft for house wrens. To let bluebirds and tree swallows share a yard, pair two boxes on separate poles 15 to 25 ft apart, or mount them back to back on one pole.

Where in the yard should a bird house go?

Match the spot to the bird. Bluebirds and tree swallows like open lawn or field with scattered trees, while house wrens and chickadees do better near trees, tall shrubs or a woodland edge. Point bluebird and tree swallow boxes toward open ground, preferably east, and face chickadee boxes away from the prevailing wind, in a spot with 40 to 60 percent sun.

Common questions

What size hole does a bluebird house need?

For Eastern and Western Bluebirds, a round hole of 1.5 inches. Mountain Bluebirds are a little bigger and need 1.563 inches.

How high should a birdhouse be off the ground?

It depends on the bird: from 4 ft to 6 ft for bluebirds up to 30 ft for kestrels and screech-owls. Pick the bird above and the plan gives its range.

Should a birdhouse have a perch?

No. The birds that use nest boxes do not need one, and a perch helps predators and House Sparrows get at the nest.

What is the best wood for a birdhouse?

Untreated cedar, pine or cypress, at least 0.75 inch thick. Leave the inside bare: no paint, stain or preservative.

How big should a chickadee house be?

A floor of 4 inches on each side, a depth of 8 inches and an entrance of 1.125 inches. The third example above builds it.

How big does a bird house need to be?

It depends on the bird, and the entrance hole matters most. A bluebird box has a floor 5 inches on each side, a depth of 9 inches and a hole of 1.5 inches. A house wren box is smaller, with a floor 4 inches on each side and a hole of 1 inches. A kestrel box is much bigger, with a floor 8 inches on each side and a hole of 3 inches. Pick your bird above and the plan lists every size.

Will birds sleep in a birdhouse?

Yes, sometimes. Bluebirds, chickadees, titmice and nuthatches may shelter in a nest box on cold nights, though a box is not ideal for roosting. You can leave the box up through winter, then clean out the old nest at the end of the season.

When should I put up a bird house?

Get the box up before nesting season: by February in the South, and by mid to late March in the North. Birds can take a while to find a new box, so don't give up if it sits empty at first.