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DIY Build Plans

Shed Plans

Pick the width, the length, the door and the roof pitch. The plan works out every board, sheet, nail and bundle of shingles, and walks you through the build from the gravel pad to the ridge cap, with a drawing for each step.

Reviewed by FigureYard editorial teamUpdated October 9, 202624 sources

Your measurements

Roof pitch
Your shed
80sq ft of floor
  • Outside size: 8 ft wide, 10 ft long, 10 ft 7 1/8 in to the peak
  • Door opening: 5 ft wide, 7 ft 1 7/8 in high
  • Roofing: 4 bundles of shingles (1.05 squares)
  • Boards to buy81
  • Sheets to buy19
  • Pieces to cut148
  • Build steps15

Shopping list · Cut list · Step by step

What you will build

8 ft8 ft5 ft door10 ft 7 1/8 in7 ft 1 7/8 in openingFrom the front

Shopping list

Type the prices from your store to see the total. They stay in this browser for next time.

ItemQtyPrice eachTotal
4x6 timber, ground-contact treated (UC4B), 10 ft long2 boards–
2x6 lumber, ground-contact treated, 10 ft long2 boards–
2x6 lumber, ground-contact treated, 8 ft long9 boards–
2x4 lumber, 16 ft long11 boards–
2x4 lumber, 12 ft long1 board–
2x4 lumber, 8 ft long31 boards–
2x6 lumber, 10 ft long6 boards–
2x8 lumber, 10 ft long1 board–
1x6 board, 12 ft long2 boards–
1x4 board, 8 ft long16 boards–
23/32 in tongue-and-groove subfloor panel, rated 24 oc, 4 ft × 8 ft sheet3 sheets–
19/32 in T1-11 plywood siding, 4 ft × 8 ft sheet11 sheets–
7/16 in OSB roof sheathing, rated 24/16, 4 ft × 8 ft sheet5 sheets–
16d common nails, 3 1/2 in, hot-dip galvanized392 needed plus spares; framing432 nails–
10d common nails, 3 in, hot-dip galvanizedrafters to the plates and the ridge82 nails–
8d common nails, 2 1/2 in, hot-dip galvanizedfloor and roof sheathing, joists to skids, ties and blocks to plates614 nails–
8d galvanized box or siding nailsevery 6 in on panel edges, 12 in on studs between677 nails–
Hurricane ties (rafter ties) for 2x6 rafters, galvanizedone where each rafter crosses a wall12 ties–
Connector nails listed on the tie packagefill every hole of each tie120 pieces–
Exterior wood screws, 1 5/8 in, for the doordoor frame and trims, from the inside80 screws–
Heavy T-hinges or strap hinges, galvanized, about 8 in3 on each leaf6 hinges–
Hasp and padlock1 set–
Barrel bolts, galvanizedhold the left leaf shut, top and bottom2 bolts–
Crushed gravel for the pada pad 4 in deep and 1 ft wider than the shed all round2.5 tons–
Asphalt shingles1.05 squares plus 10% for waste4 bundles–
Starter strip shinglesalong the eaves and up the rakes1 bundle–
Hip and ridge cap shinglesalong the ridge1 bundle–
Galvanized roofing nails, long enough to go through the sheathing4 in each shingle296 nails–
Roofing underlayment, No. 15 felt (ASTM D226 Type I)one layer, lapped 2 in1 roll–
Metal drip edgealong the eaves and up the rakes; pieces lap 2 in41 ft–
Z-flashing for 19/32 in sidingover the joint between the gable walls and the gable tops16 ft–
Insect screen or a perforated vent strip for the eavescovers the 1 in air gap above the eave blocks20 ft–
Total for the items you priced–

Cut list

PartWhat it isLumberSizeCut
ASkidstands on edge on the gravel4x6 timber, ground-contact treated (UC4B)120 in2
BRim joistalong each long side2x6 lumber, ground-contact treated120 in2
CFloor joistthe two end joists close the frame2x6 lumber, ground-contact treated93 in9
D1aFloor sheet23/32 in tongue-and-groove subfloor panel, rated 24 oc96 × 48 in1
D1bFloor sheet23/32 in tongue-and-groove subfloor panel, rated 24 oc24 × 48 in1
D2aFloor sheet23/32 in tongue-and-groove subfloor panel, rated 24 oc48 × 48 in1
D2bFloor sheet23/32 in tongue-and-groove subfloor panel, rated 24 oc72 × 48 in1
ESide wall bottom plate2x4 lumber120 in2
FSide wall top platethe lower of the two2x4 lumber120 in2
F2Side wall cap platethe upper plate, stopping short of the corners2x4 lumber113 in2
GStud2x4 lumber85 7/8 in29
HGable wall bottom platethe front one is cut out at the door later2x4 lumber89 in2
JGable wall top platethe lower of the two2x4 lumber89 in2
J2Gable wall cap platelaps over the side walls at the corners2x4 lumber96 in2
KDoor headerlaid flat under the top plate2x4 lumber60 in1
PRafterplumb cut at both ends, notched over the wall2x6 lumber59 7/8 in12
QRidge board2x8 lumber120 in1
RRafter tieone beside each rafter pair, on the top plates2x4 lumber96 in6
N1Gable stud (under the ridge)square cut2x4 lumber16 15/16 in2
N2Gable studtop cut to the roof slope; length to the long point2x4 lumber12 5/16 in4
N3Gable studtop cut to the roof slope; length to the long point2x4 lumber5 3/4 in4
S1Eave blockon edge between rafters, over the side walls2x4 lumber21 in6
S2Eave blockon edge between rafters, over the side walls2x4 lumber20 1/4 in2
S3Eave blockon edge between rafters, over the side walls2x4 lumber18 3/4 in2
TFasciaacross the rafter tails1x6 board122 11/16 in2
URake boardup each gable edge, under the roof sheathing1x4 board61 1/2 in4
VCorner trimtwo on each corner1x4 board96 in8
X1Side wall siding19/32 in T1-11 plywood siding96 × 48 in4
X2Side wall siding19/32 in T1-11 plywood siding96 × 24 in2
Y1Gable wall sidingthe door is cut from the front ones19/32 in T1-11 plywood siding96 × 48 in4
Z1Gable top siding, cut as a pairone cut gives both sides of a gable19/32 in T1-11 plywood siding29 × 48 in2
W1aRoof sheathingone for each side of the roof7/16 in OSB roof sheathing, rated 24/1673 3/8 × 48 in2
W1bRoof sheathingone for each side of the roof7/16 in OSB roof sheathing, rated 24/1649 3/8 × 48 in2
W2aRoof sheathingone for each side of the roof7/16 in OSB roof sheathing, rated 24/1625 3/8 × 13 1/2 in2
W2bRoof sheathingone for each side of the roof7/16 in OSB roof sheathing, rated 24/1695 1/4 × 13 1/2 in2
W2cRoof sheathingone for each side of the roof7/16 in OSB roof sheathing, rated 24/162 1/8 × 13 1/2 in2
M1Door railtop and bottom of each leaf, on the inside2x4 lumber29 in4
M2Door bracecut to fit between the rails, on the diagonal2x4 lumber84 1/8 in2
M3Door trim, top and bottom1x4 board32 in4
M4Door trim, sides1x4 board80 7/8 in4

Where to cut each board

Each bar is one board you buy, drawn to scale. Measure from the left end, cut, then measure the next piece from the fresh cut; the saw blade takes about 1/8 in each time. Hatched ends are offcuts.

4x6 timber, ground-contact treated (UC4B)

10 ftA · 120 in10 ftA · 120 in

2x6 lumber, ground-contact treated

10 ftB · 120 in10 ftB · 120 in8 ftC · 93 in8 ftC · 93 in8 ftC · 93 in8 ftC · 93 in8 ftC · 93 in8 ftC · 93 in8 ftC · 93 in8 ftC · 93 in8 ftC · 93 in

2x4 lumber

16 ftF2 · 113 inS1S1S2N216 ftE · 120 inM1M1N216 ftF · 120 inM1M1N216 ftF · 120 inS1S1S116 ftG · 85 7/8 inG · 85 7/8 inS316 ftG · 85 7/8 inG · 85 7/8 inS316 ftG · 85 7/8 inG · 85 7/8 inN116 ftG · 85 7/8 inG · 85 7/8 inN116 ftG · 85 7/8 inG · 85 7/8 inN216 ftG · 85 7/8 inM2 · 84 1/8 inS116 ftE · 120 inK · 60 in12 ftF2 · 113 inS28 ftH · 89 in8 ftH · 89 in8 ftJ · 89 in8 ftJ · 89 in8 ftJ2 · 96 in8 ftJ2 · 96 in8 ftR · 96 in8 ftR · 96 in8 ftG · 85 7/8 in8 ftR · 96 in8 ftG · 85 7/8 in8 ftR · 96 in8 ftG · 85 7/8 in8 ftR · 96 in8 ftG · 85 7/8 in8 ftR · 96 in8 ftG · 85 7/8 in8 ftG · 85 7/8 in8 ftG · 85 7/8 in8 ftG · 85 7/8 in8 ftG · 85 7/8 in8 ftG · 85 7/8 in8 ftG · 85 7/8 in8 ftG · 85 7/8 in8 ftG · 85 7/8 in8 ftG · 85 7/8 in8 ftG · 85 7/8 in8 ftG · 85 7/8 in8 ftG · 85 7/8 in8 ftG · 85 7/8 in8 ftM2 · 84 1/8 in

2x6 lumber

10 ftP · 59 7/8 inP · 59 7/8 in10 ftP · 59 7/8 inP · 59 7/8 in10 ftP · 59 7/8 inP · 59 7/8 in10 ftP · 59 7/8 inP · 59 7/8 in10 ftP · 59 7/8 inP · 59 7/8 in10 ftP · 59 7/8 inP · 59 7/8 in

2x8 lumber

10 ftQ · 120 in

1x6 board

12 ftT · 122 11/16 in12 ftT · 122 11/16 in

1x4 board

8 ftU · 61 1/2 inM3 · 32 in8 ftU · 61 1/2 inM3 · 32 in8 ftU · 61 1/2 inM3 · 32 in8 ftU · 61 1/2 inM3 · 32 in8 ftV · 96 in8 ftV · 96 in8 ftV · 96 in8 ftV · 96 in8 ftV · 96 in8 ftV · 96 in8 ftV · 96 in8 ftV · 96 in8 ftM4 · 80 7/8 in8 ftM4 · 80 7/8 in8 ftM4 · 80 7/8 in8 ftM4 · 80 7/8 in

23/32 in tongue-and-groove subfloor panel, rated 24 oc, sheet 1 of 3

D1a96 × 48 in

23/32 in tongue-and-groove subfloor panel, rated 24 oc, sheet 2 of 3

D2b72 × 48 in

23/32 in tongue-and-groove subfloor panel, rated 24 oc, sheet 3 of 3

D2a48 × 48 inD1b24 × 48 in

19/32 in T1-11 plywood siding, sheet 1 of 11

X196 × 48 in

19/32 in T1-11 plywood siding, sheet 2 of 11

X196 × 48 in

19/32 in T1-11 plywood siding, sheet 3 of 11

X196 × 48 in

19/32 in T1-11 plywood siding, sheet 4 of 11

X196 × 48 in

19/32 in T1-11 plywood siding, sheet 5 of 11

Y196 × 48 in

19/32 in T1-11 plywood siding, sheet 6 of 11

Y196 × 48 in

19/32 in T1-11 plywood siding, sheet 7 of 11

Y196 × 48 in

19/32 in T1-11 plywood siding, sheet 8 of 11

Y196 × 48 in

19/32 in T1-11 plywood siding, sheet 9 of 11

X296 × 24 in

19/32 in T1-11 plywood siding, sheet 10 of 11

X296 × 24 in

19/32 in T1-11 plywood siding, sheet 11 of 11

Z129 × 48 inZ129 × 48 in

7/16 in OSB roof sheathing, rated 24/16, sheet 1 of 5

W1a73 3/8 × 48 in

7/16 in OSB roof sheathing, rated 24/16, sheet 2 of 5

W1a73 3/8 × 48 in

7/16 in OSB roof sheathing, rated 24/16, sheet 3 of 5

W1b49 3/8 × 48 inW2a25 3/8 × 13 1/2 inW2a25 3/8 × 13 1/2 in

7/16 in OSB roof sheathing, rated 24/16, sheet 4 of 5

W1b49 3/8 × 48 in

7/16 in OSB roof sheathing, rated 24/16, sheet 5 of 5

W2b95 1/4 × 13 1/2 inW2b95 1/4 × 13 1/2 in

Tools

  • Tape measure, pencil, a speed square and a framing square
  • Circular saw, and a handsaw or jigsaw to finish cuts
  • Framing hammer (or a rented nail gun), and a drill/driver for the door
  • Four-foot level, a string line and a chalk line
  • Ladder or two, and sawhorses
  • Shovel, rake and a hand tamper for the pad
  • Utility knife and a hammer tacker for the underlayment
  • Safety glasses, hearing protection, work gloves and a dust mask

Step by step

  1. Prepare the pad and set the skids

    Mark out a pad 1 ft bigger than the shed on every side, dig out the sod and spread 4 in of crushed gravel. Rake it level and tamp it firm.

    Lay the skids A on edge, 10 ft long, with the two outer skids flush with the sides of the shed. Level them along their length and against each other, adding or raking gravel under the low spots.

    Measure both diagonals of the skid layout; when they match, it is square.

    A8 ft10 ftSkids on the gravel pad, from above (front at the bottom)
  2. Build the floor frame

    Stand the rim joists B on edge on the outer skids. Mark the joist centers on both rims from the front end: 16, 32, 48, 64, 80, 96, 112 in.

    Set the end joists C flush with the ends and the rest on the marks, and drive 3 16d nails through each rim into every joist end. Measure the diagonals (about 12 ft 9 11/16 in) and push the frame square.

    Toe nail each joist to every skid it crosses with 3 8d nails. The joists, rims and skids sit close to the ground, so they must be treated lumber, and every nail in them hot-dip galvanized.

    BCBC8 ft10 ft163248648096112Floor frame from above (front at the bottom)
  3. Lay the floor

    Lay the subfloor sheets D with their long edges along the shed and the grooved edge toward the back, starting at the front left corner. End joints fall on the joist centers; start the second row with a half sheet so the joints do not line up.

    Leave a 1/8 in gap at the ends of the sheets. Nail with 8d nails every 6 in along the edges and every 12 in along each joist.

    D1aD1bD2aD2b8 ftFloor sheets from above: end joints on joists, staggered
  4. Build the side walls

    Lay a bottom plate E and a top plate F side by side and mark the studs on both at once, from the front end to the left edge of each stud: 0, 15 1/4, 31 1/4, 47 1/4, 63 1/4, 79 1/4, 95 1/4, 111 1/4, 118 1/2 in.

    Set the studs G between the plates and drive 2 16d nails through each plate into each stud end. Nail the cap plate F2 on top, 3 1/2 in in from each end, with 16d nails every 16 in.

    Build the second side wall the same way.

    EG90 3/8 in10 ft15 1/431 1/447 1/463 1/479 1/495 1/4111 1/4Side wall frame, laid flat (make two)
  5. Build the front and back walls

    The gable walls fit between the side walls. Mark the studs on the plates H and J from the left end: front 0, 13, 74 1/2, 87 1/2 in, back 0, 14 9/16, 29 3/16, 43 3/4, 58 5/16, 72 15/16, 87 1/2 in. Some studs sit where siding sheets meet, so do not move them.

    In the front wall, the two studs in the middle frame the 5 ft door. Nail the flat header K under the top plate between them, with 3 16d nails through each stud into its ends. Leave the bottom plate whole for now.

    HGK90 3/8 in7 ft 5 in1374 1/2Front wall frame, laid flat, seen from outsideHG90 3/8 in7 ft 5 in14 9/1629 3/1643 3/458 5/1672 15/16Back wall frame, laid flat
  6. Stand the walls

    Stand the side walls on the floor, flush with its edges, and brace them plumb with a scrap board nailed to the floor frame. Stand the front and back walls between them.

    Nail the corner studs together with 16d nails every 24 in, and the bottom plates down into the floor frame every 16 in.

    Nail the gable cap plates J2 on top so they lap over the side walls at each corner, with 2 16d nails down into the corner. Cut the front bottom plate out of the door opening, flush with the studs.

    KFJJ2F23 1/2 inLeft front corner from above: the gable cap plate laps the side wall
  7. Cut the rafters

    Mark the first rafter P on a straight 2x6, crown up. At the top end, mark a plumb cut at 5 in 12. From its long point, measure 51 3/16 in along the top edge to the heel line, and mark the seat cut, level and 3 1/2 in long, so the heel cut is 1 7/16 in deep.

    Measure 8 11/16 in past the heel line along the top edge and mark the tail plumb cut. The rafter is 59 7/8 in from long point to long point.

    Cut two, hold them on the walls with a scrap of 2x8 between them at the top, and check the fit. Then use one as the pattern for the other 10.

    P59 7/8 in long point to long point51 3/16 in to the heelplumb cut, 5 in 12seat 3 1/2 in, heel 1 7/16 intail plumb cutRafter: mark it out like this, cut one pair and test it
  8. Raise the ridge and the rafters

    Mark the rafter positions on both side wall cap plates and on the ridge board Q, from the front end: 0, 23 1/4, 47 1/4, 71 1/4, 95 1/4, 118 1/2 in.

    Set the front pair first: hold the ridge up on a temporary post so its top is 24 3/16 in above the top plates, nail the first rafter to it with 2 16d nails through the ridge and toe nail the one opposite with 3 10d nails. Toe nail both to the plates with 3 10d nails each. Then set the back pair, and the rest, toe nailing each rafter to the ridge with 3 10d nails.

    Lay a rafter tie R on the top plates beside each pair and nail it to both rafters with 3 16d nails at each end, and to the plates with 3 8d nails. Fit a hurricane tie where each rafter crosses a wall.

    RPQRQP90 3/8 in24 3/16 in8 inFrom the front: a rafter pair, the ridge board and the tie

    Hurricane tie

  9. Frame the gables and close the eaves

    In each gable, set the studs N on the cap plate under the end rafters, with the stud under the ridge first: 15 3/4, 31 1/2, 47 1/4, 63, 78 3/4 in from the left. Cut each top to the roof slope and toe nail it at both ends.

    Over each side wall, nail a block S on edge between the rafters, flush with the outside of the plates. It leaves a 1 in gap under the roof sheathing for air; you screen it later.

    J2N18 ft15 3/431 1/247 1/46378 3/4Front gable from outside: studs under the end raftersS1T8 3/4 in1 in air gap, screenedLeft eave from the front: block, air gap and fascia
  10. Put on the siding

    Start at a corner. Hang the side wall sheets X with the grooves running up and down, the bottom edge 6 1/8 in above the gravel and the top flush with the top plates. Vertical joints land on studs.

    Hang the front and back sheets Y the same way, then set Z-flashing along the top of the walls and the gable tops Z above it. Nail every 6 in along the edges and every 12 in on the studs between, with a 1/8 in gap at joints.

    Cut the door opening through the front siding along the inside of the door studs and the header, with a circular saw set to the siding’s depth. Keep the pieces: they are the doors.

    X16 1/8 in10 ftLeft side wall siding from outside (front at the left)Y118 in60 in5 5/8 in85 7/8 inZ-flashingFront siding from outside: cut the door opening along the framing4 1/2 in24 1/2 in48 inGable top pair Z1: one piece, cut corner to corner
  11. Fascia and rake boards

    Nail the fascia T across the rafter tails, its top in line with the top of the rafters, letting it run 1 3/8 in past the gable siding at each end.

    Nail a rake board U up each gable edge, tight under where the roof sheathing will overhang.

  12. Sheath the roof

    Lay the OSB W with its long edges across the rafters, starting at the eave with the edge flush with the fascia face. End joints fall on rafters; start the next row with a shorter piece so the joints stagger.

    Let the sheets run 1 3/8 in past the gables, over the rake boards. Leave a 1/8 in gap at edges and ends, and nail with 8d nails every 6 in along the edges and every 6 in along each rafter.

    W1aW1bW2aW2bW2c10 ft 2 11/16 in61 1/2 inRoof sheathing on one side, from above (eave at the bottom)
  13. Shingle the roof

    Nail drip edge along both eaves every 12 in or closer, lapping pieces 2 in. At 5 in 12 one layer of underlayment is enough: roll it out from the eave up, over the eave drip edge, lapping each course 2 in. Then nail drip edge up the rakes, over the underlayment.

    Lay starter strip along the eaves and up the rakes, then the shingles from the bottom up as the bundle wrapper shows, with 4 roofing nails in each shingle, long enough to go through the sheathing. Finish with ridge cap shingles.

    sheathingdrip edgeunderlaymentstarter stripshinglesRoofing at the eave, from the side: the order of the layers
  14. Hang the doors

    On the inside of each door, screw a rail M1 across the top and bottom, 1/2 in in from the edges, and cut the brace M2 to fit between them, running up from the bottom on the hinge side.

    Screw the trims M3 and M4 around the outside of each door, standing 1 in past its edges, so they close against the siding.

    Hang each door with 3 hinges into the door studs. Fit barrel bolts to hold the left door shut at the top and bottom, and a hasp across the two.

    M1M230 in85 7/8 inhinge side at the left: the brace runs up from the bottom hingeA door leaf from the inside (the other is the mirror image)

    Hinge

  15. Trim and finish

    Nail two corner trims V on each corner, one on each face, and staple insect screen over the eave gaps.

    Prime and paint or stain the siding and trim, the panel edges most of all, before the first rain.

Good to know

  • The model code exempts one-story sheds of up to 200 sq ft from a building permit, but towns can set their own rules, and setbacks from property lines still apply. Ask your building department before you build.
  • Skids, joists and rims must be ground-contact treated lumber, and every nail, screw and connector that touches them hot-dip galvanized or stainless.
  • This plan is for a ground snow load of up to 20 psf. In high-wind areas, anchor the skids to the ground with anchors made for sheds.

It is a classic gable shed on wood skids: a 2x6 floor, 2x4 stud walls with T1-11 plywood siding, 2x6 rafters on a ridge board, and an asphalt shingle roof. The spans, rafter ties, nailing and clearances come from the International Residential Code, so the shed is built the way an inspector would expect, even where it needs no permit.

How to use this calculator

  1. Choose the width and the length. The door goes in the front gable, so the width is the side you walk in from. Sizes go up to 12x16, which keeps the floor under 200 sq ft.
  2. Choose a single door or double doors, and the roof pitch. A steeper roof sheds rain faster and gives more headroom under the ridge.
  3. Pick the ground snow load where you live. Your building department can tell you; where it is higher than the list offers, the roof needs its own design.
  4. Take the shopping list to the store, then follow the steps in order. The lumber yard can deliver the long boards.

Worked examples

An 8x10 shed with double doors

Width: 8 ft · Length: 10 ft · Door: Double doors, 5 ft wide

Your shed
80 sq ft of floor
Outside size
8 ft wide, 10 ft long, 10 ft 7 1/8 in to the peak
Door opening
5 ft wide, 7 ft 1 7/8 in high
Roofing
4 bundles of shingles (1.05 squares)
Boards to buy
81

A 10x12 shed

Width: 10 ft · Length: 12 ft · Door: Double doors, 5 ft wide · Roof pitch: 6 in 12

Your shed
120 sq ft of floor
Outside size
10 ft wide, 12 ft long, 11 ft 4 15/16 in to the peak
Door opening
5 ft wide, 7 ft 1 7/8 in high
Roofing
6 bundles of shingles (1.57 squares)
Boards to buy
92

A 12x16 shed with wide doors

Width: 12 ft · Length: 16 ft · Door: Double doors, 6 ft wide · Roof pitch: 5 in 12

Your shed
192 sq ft of floor
Outside size
12 ft wide, 16 ft long, 11 ft 5 1/8 in to the peak
Door opening
6 ft wide, 7 ft 1 7/8 in high
Roofing
8 bundles of shingles (2.37 squares)
Boards to buy
119

A small 6x8 garden shed

Width: 6 ft · Length: 8 ft · Door: Single door, 3 ft wide · Roof pitch: 6 in 12

Your shed
48 sq ft of floor
Outside size
6 ft wide, 8 ft long, 10 ft 4 15/16 in to the peak
Door opening
3 ft wide, 7 ft 1 7/8 in high
Roofing
3 bundles of shingles (0.686 squares)
Boards to buy
63

A 10x16 shed for more snow

Width: 10 ft · Length: 16 ft · Door: Double doors, 5 ft wide · Ground snow load where you live: Up to 30 psf

Your shed
160 sq ft of floor
Outside size
10 ft wide, 16 ft long, 11 ft 1/8 in to the peak
Door opening
5 ft wide, 7 ft 1 7/8 in high
Roofing
7 bundles of shingles (2.01 squares)
Boards to buy
102

How big can a shed be without a permit?

Under the model building code most towns use, a one-story shed with a floor of up to 200 sq ft needs no building permit. Many towns keep that rule, some set a smaller size, and zoning rules about how close you can build to a property line apply either way, so call your building department before you buy lumber.

A shed that needs no permit still has to be built to the code. That is why every span, tie and nail count in this plan comes from the code’s tables.

What holds the roof up

  • The rafters are 2x6, 24 inches apart, and each pair is tied across the shed by a 2x4 rafter tie on the wall plates. Without the ties, the weight of the roof would push the walls apart.
  • The notch where each rafter sits on the wall leaves at least 3.5 inches of wood above it, as the code asks for a rafter that overhangs the wall. A 2x4 is too shallow for that, which is why the plan uses 2x6 rafters.
  • The ridge board is a 2x8, deeper than the sloped ends of the rafters it joins.
  • Each joint where a tie meets a rafter gets the number of nails the code’s table gives for your pitch and snow load.

Keeping the shed dry and sound

  • The skids, joists and rim joists sit near the ground, so they are ground-contact treated lumber, fastened with hot-dip galvanized nails.
  • The siding stops at least 6 inches above the ground, and the gravel pad lets water drain away from the floor.
  • Siding joints land on studs, and Z-flashing covers the joint where the gable tops meet the walls.
  • At a pitch of 4 in per 12 in or steeper, one layer of underlayment under the shingles is enough. Drip edge along the eaves and up the rakes keeps water off the wood.

Common questions

What is the best foundation for a shed?

For a shed this size, treated wood skids on a compacted gravel pad are the simplest: the gravel drains, the skids spread the weight, and the shed can be moved later. A concrete slab or piers last longer but take far more work.

How far apart should shed rafters be?

With 2x6 rafters, 24 inches on center, which is also the most the code allows between rafter ties. Roof sheathing rated for that spacing spans it without clips.

What roof pitch is best for a shed?

Asphalt shingles need a slope of at least 2 in per 12 in, and from 4 in per 12 in one layer of underlayment is enough. This plan offers pitches from 4 in 12 to 6 in 12: steeper sheds water and snow better and gives more headroom.

How high off the ground should a shed floor be?

High enough that the siding stays at least 6 inches above the ground. Skids on edge on a gravel pad lift the floor frame and leave room for air under it.